peters



(No Model) s Sheets-Sheet 1.

W'.- T HOSE. Machine for-Making Neck Rushes or' Collarets No. 242,928. Patented June 14,1881.

- lhnnbr N, PETERS. Phuwumu n mr. Washinginn, D4 C4 3 Shee ts-Sheet 2.

Patented June 14 W- T- HOSE.

(No Model.)

Machine for Making Neck Rushes or Goll'arets.- No. 242,928.

N. PETERS. mowumu n nur. Washington, D. c.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

WILLIAM T. EOsE, OF NEW YORK, N. .Y., ASSIGNOR TO EMIL s..LEvI,OE

I SAME PLACE. I

MACHINE FOR MAKING NECK-RUCHE S OR COLLARETS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 242,928, dated June 14, 1881.

Application filed April 1,1881. (No model.)

To all whom tt' may concern Be it known that I, WILLIAM T. HOsE, of the city and county of New York, in the State of New York, have invented certain new and'usefullmprovemen ts in Machines forMakin gNeck- Ruches or Gollarets, of which the following is a specification.

Neck-ruches or collarets are commonly made by fluting a strip of material double the width of the ruching or collaret to be made, then pressing down or creasing the flutes along the center of the width of the flutedstrip, and finally cutting the strip through the center of its width.

The principal object of In y invention is to provideanautomaticmachinewhieh,without hand labor, and from a continuous striporroll of the double'widlh fluted fabric, will produce neckruches or collarets of desired length, and having the flutes at each end of the ruches or collarets turned from a position at right angles to the length of the ruche or collaret into a position parallel with the length thereof, whereby a rounded form and finish are given to the ends of the ruches or collarets. This result has been before accomplished; but it has been necessary to firstcut the fluted strip into proper length, and then turn in and pin the flutes at the ends of each of the double ruches or .001- larets by hand, and hence their manufacture has been expensive.

My invention consists, essentially, in a machine comprising mechanism, hereinafterfully described, for drawing forward from a roll'or continuous piece of fluted fabric of double the width of the ruches'or collarets which itis to form, a quantity equal to the length of one ruche or collaret, shears for cutting oft'such quantity, holding or clamping plates for holding the opposite edges of the cut-off portion of the fluted fabric, forks which descend into the fluted fabric near its ends and are turned a quarter of a revolution to turn the flutes at the ends so that they will lap over each other, heated pressingirons brought together upon opposite sides of the fabric and holding it tightly between them until the lappedend portions are stuck together, and, preferably, mechanism for drawing thecut-ofl' portion of the fluted fabric still farther, and for cutting it longitudinally to form from it two ruches or collarets, which only require binding to prepare them for use.

In the accompan yin gdrawin gs, Figure 1 rep- Y Fig. 3 represents a detail view, showing the nippers which are employed for drawing the fluted fabric through the machine and a portion of their operating mechanism. Fig.4represents a diagram end view of the drawingnippers and their guides. Fig. 5 represents an elevation of the end of the machine at which the fluted fabric enters. Fig. 6 represents a transverse vertical section upon the dotted line 00 m, Fig. 1, certain of the parts being, however, omitted. Fig. 7 represents a transverse vertical section'of a portion of the machine. Fig. 8 represents the end portion of the fluted fabric as it is fed into the machine, and Fig. 9 represents the end portion thereof after its corners are turned in and lapped one over the other, and immediately before it is severed longitudinally.

Similar letters of reference designate corre sponding parts in all the figures.

A, Fig. 8, designates the double-width fluted fabric, which has been previously formed ina separate machine, and has had its central por-.

tion, a, crushed, pressed (10mmcreased, and secured by adhesive substance alone, or by longitudinal threads secured thereto by adhesive substance. 1 I

B designates the upright side frames of the machine, which are held at a suitable distance apart by suitable cross-bars or stretchers, and in which are formed the bearings of the severalparts of the machine.

At the front end of the machine, where the doubledflutediabric. shown in Fig. 8 enters, and which in Fig. l is the right-hand end of the machine, are a number of guide-plates,b, between which theffabric enters, and which converge from their outer ends, as seen in Fig. 1, and are fixed rigidly in a frame, I), which is supported by brackets b projecting from the main frame-work B of the machine. In

this instance I have represented seven guideplates, b, which adapt the machine for receiving and operating upon six pieces of the fluted fabric which are drawn forward together, but only two pieces are here shown. I will now describe the mechanism whereby the fluted fabrics are drawn forward into and through the machine. I

Between the two side frames, B, of the machine, and near to each other, are pairs of longitudinal guides 0, which are supported by yokes 0, one arm of each yoke being fixed to the two upper guides, and the other arm to the two lower guides, as seen clearly in Fig. 4. At the ends of the yokes c are journals 0, and it will be understood that by oscillating the yokes 0 upon their journals the upper and lower guides, a, will be caused to approach and recede from each other.

The drawing or pulling devices employed consist of two upper and two lower bars, d, which are provided with dovetailed projections which slide in corresponding grooves in the guides c, as seen clearly in Fig. 4,:and at the ends of the bars 01 are formed nippers d,

which have serrated or roughened faces, and

which, when brought together, will bite and hold the fabric tightly between them, the nippers catching the end of the fabric A upon each side of the flattened central portion, a. To each of the nipper-bars is connected an arm or rod, (1 and the four arms or rods (1 are fixed at their opposite ends to a stockpiece, at, which is connected to levers O by pins d entering slots d in the ends of said levers. The levers O are pivoted or fulcrurned at e, and are moved inward to carry the nippers d toward the end of the fabric by a spring, 0.

D designates a shaft extending transversely across the machine and deriving motion, by means of a wheel, D, and pinion D from a driving-shaft, E, which may be rotated by a belt passed around fast and loose pulleys E E as seen in Fig. 5.

Upon the shaft D are fixed two cams, D which are shown dotted in Fig. 1, and clearly in Fig. 6, and which act upon rollers 0, carried by the levers (l to move the levers, and the nippers d to draw the fabric through the machine.

The ends of the fluted fabrics are placed between the guide-plates b, and sutficiently far to enable the nippers d to reach them by hand,

7 and when the nippers are moved far enough backward to reach the ends of the fabrics they will, if closed, bite upon the fabrics and draw them forward a distance corresponding to the length of the ruches or collarets to be produced. The nippers are brought together by moving the guides 0 toward each other, and such movement of the guides is produced by the oscillation ofrthe yokes c, which support them, and which is effected in the following manner:

' F designates a shaft mounted in suitable bearings longitudinally at one side of the machine and carrying a worm-wheel, F, through which rotary motion is imparted to it from a worm, F upon the driving shaft E, as seen clearly in Figs. 2 and 5.

Upon the shaft F is fixed a cam, F which acts upon a roller carried by a lever or arm, 6 projecting from a rock-shaft, e, and held in engagement with said cam by a spring, 0. The rock-shaft also carries an arm, 6 which is connected by a rod or link, 0 with one of the yokes c, as seen in dotted outline in Fig.1, and also in Fig. 2; and by the oscillation of the rock-shaft produced bythe cam F and spring 0, the said yoke is oscillated upon its journals 0 The oscillation of one yoke c, acting through the guides 0, will effect the oscillation of all the yokes and the movement of the guides toward each other, and this movement is so timed that the guides are brought together just as the nippers d have completed their backward movement and are in position to gripe the end of the fabrics A.- The cam F is so shaped that the guides c are held together to cause the nippers d to hold the fabric during their whole forward movement, and are not moved apart until such forward movement is completed. The cams D are so shaped that after the principal forward movement of the levers O and the nippers 01 there is a slight dwell while the guidescare being moved apart,

and then a slight further forward movement of the levers and nippers to carry the nippers out of the reach of or beyond the end of the fabric. The. portion of the cams D which gives this dwell and further forward movement is indicated in dotted outline Fig. 1, at e. The fabricsA having been drawn forward the length of one ruche or collaret, it is now necessary to cut them off, and Iwill now describe the shears employed for this purpose, as shown best in Figs. 2 and 5, premisin g, however, that shears or cutters otherwise arranged might bensed.

Gr designates a bar, extending transversely of the machine, and adapted to slide in bearings f upon the frame 13'. The said bar is moved in one direction by a cam,f, upon the shaft F, which bears'npon aroller,f pivoted to the bar G, and it is moved in the opposite direction by a spring, f shown in Fig. 5.

G designates the shear-blades, which are pivoted at f to the side of the bar G, and are moved therewith and thereby. The two tails of the shear-blades are drawn together by a spring, f and between them projects a hub or collar,f upon the end of the shaft F. When, the shears are in their outermost position, opposite to that shown in Fig. 5, the hub or'collarf fits between the tails and holds the shears apart 5 and as they are moved inward to the position shown in Fig.5 the inclines f 7 on the tails of the shear-blades ride upon the hub or collar f and gradually the shears are opened to their widest extent as they are moved past the fabrics A, so as to embrace them. At the ends of the inclines fare shoulders,which, as soon as the shears reach the position shown in Fig. 5, pass the hub or collar f 6 and permit the closing of the shears by the spring f 5 to cut 7 off the fabrics. Immediately after the closing of the shears the sliding-bar Gr moves outward under the influence of the spring f and carries the shears with it out of the way.

When thefluted fabrics are drawn forward by the nippers d their opposite edges are car-.

ried between clamping or holding plates H, which are pivoted at g so as to oscillate slightly. When not otherwise actuated the outer ends of all the plates H will be drawn together, as seen in Fig. 6, by springs 9' connecting them, and while the fabrics are being drawn forward the plates H arein such position and permit the edges of the fabrics to be drawn between them, one fabric passing between two plates.

When the fabrics are drawn forward, and thenippers d are just about releasing their hold, theplates H are caused to clamp the opposite edges of the portions of the fabrics which are to be cut off tightly between them by means of pins 9 which pass between the plates, as seen in Figs. 6 and 7, and project from arms or levers H, which are pivoted or fulcrumed at g3, and are connected by a link, H which passes from one lever H above its fulcrum to the other below its fulcrum. The two levers H are moved inward toward each other to cause their pins 9 to act upon the clampingplates, to move them together by means of a cam, H upon the shaft F, and the said levers H are moved in the opposite direction, or away from each other, by means of a spring, H Thus it will be understood that just before the shears G cutoff the fabrics A they are clamped at opposite edges by the plates H and firmly held during the several operations which follow.

I l desi nate res active] u ner and lower pressing-irons, which are attached to or, as hereshown, made in the same piece with the cross-heads J J, which are adapted to slide in as clearly seen in Fig. 6, so as to cause them to act upon opposite sides of the longitudinally-central portion of the fluted fabrics A to-press them. The two cross-heads J J are hollow, as are also the pressing-irons I I, and

may be heated by steam or hot air introduced nected by means of links or rods l with levers 1 fulcrumed upon a shaft, 1', and carrying at their oppositecnds rollers i, which are acted upon by cams K upon the shaft D, as

J, carrying the lower pressing-iron, I, is connected by rods or links I with elbow or hellcrank levers 1 which are also fulcrumed upon the shaft 1', and at their ends are connected and carry a roller, i which is acted upon by a cam, K, as seen'in Figsul and'5. .Byqthis means the upper and lower pressing-irons are caused to approach and recede from each other,

they being moved toward each other by the.

springs 72., and away from each other by the cams K K and the connecting levers and rods just described.

I will now describe the mechanism by which the ends of the portions of the fluted fabrics cut off are turned so as to lap one over the other, and which is best shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 5.

vAt each end of the upper pressing-iron, I, are a pair of forks, j, each of which projects radially eccentrically upon one side of an upright spindle, j, which is fitted in bearingsj upon the upper pressing-iron. These spindles j are provided with collars above the bearings jflwhich preclude too great downward movement, but which permit the forks to be pressed below the lowersnrface of the pressingiron I by springs j upon the spindles j. The upper pressing-iron works up and down in an opening in a skeleton-frame or spider, L, supported oncolumns' L and the forks j, and their spindles j are carried up and down with the pressing-iron. The spindles j of the forks j of each pair are geared together by pinions j, which arelocked to the spindles by means of feathers thereon, so that the spindles may move up and down, but cannot r0tateindepend ently of said pinions. One of the pinions of each pair is wider than the other, and, with said widerpini-ons, engage racks-k, (see Fig. 2,) which are bolted to a sliding frame, which surrounds the pressing-iron I, and is adapted to slide in angle-pieces k bolted to the frame or spider L. The slide k is reciprocated by means of an arm, k which projects from an upright rock-shaft, k, which is oscillated in one direction by a cam, L on the shaft F, and in the opposite directionbyaspring,k (SeeFig.2.) As before stated, the forks j project considerably below the upper pressing-iron, I, and as the iron descends the forks enter or.stick through all the fabrics, one fork entering upon each sideof the longitudinal center at each end. The slide k is now moved longitudinally, and its racks 7c effect the simultaneous rotation of all four spindles j one-quarter of a revolution,

cillated to turn the corners of the fabrics the pressing-irons I I are brought together, and

the-lapped end portions of the fabrics are 'pressed together tightly, and, being held for a little time by the irons, are given a permanent set.

seen in Figs.;] and 5. The lower cross-head,

If necessary, I may arrange a paste-box, M,

- at the front end of the machine, as seen in dotted outlines in Fig. 1, and carry threads covered with paste through the machine with the fabrics; and if this is done the threads will he stuck down by the pressing-irons upon the lapped flutes of the fabrics'and the latter fastened by them. After the pressing-irons have been held for a proper time to press the fabrics they are moved apart, leaving the fabrics held at opposite edges by the plates H, as seen in Fig. 7. The nippers d are now moved backward, past the pieces of fabric which have just been operated upon, and far enough to reach the end of the continuous piece or roll, and the guides 0 being brought together the nippers are caused to gripe the end of the fabrics preparatory to drawing them forward.

To the stock-piece (1 from which extend the arms or rods 0?, which'work the bars d, the ends of which form the nippers at, there also extend four bars or arms, Z, the ends of which are provided with pins l,that work in the guides c, and the extreme ends of the arms or bars I are serrated or roughened to form nippers 1 as best seen in Fig. 3.

Near the delivery or back end of the machine is a roller, N, to which rotary motion is imparted from the shaft D by means of a belt,

' m, passing over a pulley, m, upon the said shaft to a pulley, m upon the shaft of said roller.

0 designates a circular knife, which has hearings in the standards 0, and is rotated by pairs of nippers d and 1 now move forward simultaneously, and just as they stop at the completion of their backward movement the plates. H are opened,-thus releasing the fabrics which have been previously operated on. The pairs of nippers cl now close upon the end of the fabrics which have not yet passed into the machine, while the nippers Z close upon the forward end of the fabrics which have been held in the plates H, and the nippers then move forward simultaneously. The nippers d draw the proper length of fabric into the plates H, which thereupon bite upon and hold the fabrics at their opposite edges, while the nippers Z carry the cut-off fabrics between the circular knife 0 and the roller N, by which they are severed longitudinally. The ruches or collarets, which are complete all but binding, then pass down an inclined delivery-board, P, into a proper delivery receptacle.

The work done by the oscillating forks j and the pressing-irons may perhaps be more clearly understood by reference to Fig. 9, which shows an. end portion of the fabric having its ends turned in and lapped one over the other, and just preparatory to cutting along the central lineyby the circular knife 0. Fig. 9also shows clearly the mode of operation of the eccentricforksj, which turn the ends of the fabric.

It will be seen that the machine is perfectly. .automatic in its action, and that all that is necessaryis to keep up a supply of the fluted fabric, and, as before stated, a single fluted fabric chine might be more or less modified in form without departing from my invention.

In lieu of being formed by a separate machine the fabric from which the collarets are to be made might be fluted and creased longitudinally by devices connected with or attached to my machine.

In adapting the machine to the pressing of several ruchings simultaneously the pressure of the springs h It might not be suflicient, and in such case the cams K K K should be constructed to draw or force the pressing-irons I 1' toward each other.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is V 1. In a machine for making ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination of one or more spindles, mechanism for oscillating the same, and forks projecting eccentrically upon one side of said spindles, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

2. In a machine for making ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination of one or more spindles, mechanism for oscillating the same, forks projecting eccentrically upon one side of said spindles and pressing-irons, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

3. In a machine for making neck-ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination, with the upper and lower movable -ressing-irons, of the oscillatingforks carried by said upper pressing-iron, but movable in an axial direction, springs for pressing on said forks, and mechanism for oscillating said forks simultaneously, substantially as specified.

4. In a machine for mal ingneck-rucl1es or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination of a sliding bar, shear-blades pivoted thcretO and carried thereby for cutting the fabric transversely, and a cam and spring for moving said sliding bar and shear-blades in opposite directions, substantially as specified.

5. In a machine for making neck-ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination of the pivoted clamping and holdin g plates, and mechanism for operating them for clamping and holding the opposite edges of the fabric, substantially as specified.

6. In a machine for making neck-ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination of the pressing-irons I l, mechanism for moving them toward and from each other, the pivoted clamping or holding plates H, and mechanism for oscillating them to cause them to gripe opposite edges of the fabric, substantially as specified. I

7. In a machine for making neck-ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination, with pairs of reciprocating nippers for drawing the fabric forward, of guides for said nippers, and mechanism for moving said guides toward or from each other to cause said nippers to gripe or release the fabric, substantially as specified.

8. In a machine for making neck-ruches from All a fluted and creased fabric, the combination, with the reciprocating bars d, carrying nippers d, of the guides 0, the pivoted or jonrnaled yokes 0, supporting said guides, and means for oscillating one of said yokes, substantially as specified.

9. In a machine for making neck-ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the combination of the guides c, the journaled yokes c,the bars and nippers dd, reciprocating in said guides, the bars or rods 6?, for reciprocating said bars or nippers, and the bars or rods l, provided at their ends with nippers l and also guided in the guides a, substantially as specified.

10. In a machine for making neckruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the

combination of pairs of nippers for drawing the fabric forward into the machine, shears for cutting the fabric transversely, oscillating forks for turning the flutes at opposite sides of each end so that they will overlap, pressingirons, between which the overlapped end flutes are pressed, and mechanism for drawing the fabric forward and delivering it from the machine, substantially as and for the purpose specified.

11. In a machine for making neck-ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the

combination of pairs of nippers for drawing the fabric forward, shears for cuttingofi the fabric transversely, oscillating forks for turning the flutes at opposite sides of each end of the cut off portion of the fabric, so that they will overlap, pressing-irons, between which the overlapped end flutes are pressed, mechanism for drawing the fabric forward from between the pressing-irons, and. a knife for dividin g the fabric longitudinally, substantially as and for the purposespecified.

12. In a machine for making neck-ruches or collarets from a fluted and creased fabric, the

WILLIAM THOMAS HOSE.

Witnesses:

FREDK. HAYNES, A. 0. WEBB. 

